A tertiary aroma of smoke and burning trees can’t be what California winemakers wish to be known for. But some Napa Valley wines smell like “spent, day-old cigarettes” and taste, in the words of one vintner, like “drinking out of a used ashtray,” New York magazine reports.

That’s because wildfires in or near the state’s wine regions have degraded one of its most famous exports, raising questions about the future of a $40 billion-plus industry, as well as the most expensive farmland in the U.S.

Caveat emptor: Cabernet Sauvignon is especially vulnerable to “smoke taint,” which can sometimes be detected only once a wine has aged. 2020 vintages were heavily affected by it.